- #Rejex on polished aluminum skin#
- #Rejex on polished aluminum trial#
- #Rejex on polished aluminum professional#
Well, I have the polisher and polish that I had planned on using and have spent a couple of evenings polishing. Reply by Blaine Schwartz on Septemat 12:44pm I should probably try it sometime and see what the result looks like. I have not gotten to the orbital polisher covered with flannel stage becasue I thought I still had too many milling marks on the skins to get rid of. I have only used the compound polisher with Nuvite F9 and C polishes. I did not have time this spring and it looks a bit cloudy as a result. I have been flying for over 4 years now and try to give it ahit of polish each spring. I took this train of thought to the fuselage bottom and painted it with Rustoleum aluminum color spray paint. It is too much work for something no one ever sees up close. I have not polished the bottom since I assembled the airplane.well I tried it once and gave up after about 5 minutes and sore arms. I only polished the bottom wing surface (601XL) this one time in these stands. I did my first polishing of the wings while they were sitting vertically in the homemade storage rack. After I flung a few sheets across the garage or bent the crap out of a corner I decided to only work on completed pieces where the structure could hold up to the polishing process. I heard of people polishing individual skins prior to installation so I tried that initially. I started compound polishing mine when things were in the sub-assembly stage using Nuvite. Reply by Joe Harrington on Septemat 8:07pm A good test for an aircraft that will be hangared. Two winters & summers in Nebraska and it looks fine. I prepped and painted a spare piece of aluminum and fiber glass and hung it on my fence as a test.
#Rejex on polished aluminum professional#
I won't lie I'm dreading the last polishing, but the look is awesome and the money you save from a professional paint job(and weight savings) are worth it.Īs a side note, I'm using the self primer from NAPA with rustoleum. Rudder and stab were done flat on a table leaning over to do that got old quick. Get a good chair if you can and have the surface to be polished in a vertical position. I did find cleaning off the excess dirty polish with mineral spirits worked well. Mix up the time you spend and pressure you apply(really not much).
#Rejex on polished aluminum trial#
Really trial and error is the best to way to learn. As for technique just go slow and steady. Not too much, just a teaspoon a square foot can't remember exactly, It's been a few years since I did the rudder/stab (great past time while waiting for the next kit portion to come). Just put a few dabs of each compound on the area you're polishing and "wet" the polisher with the compound. Also I don't want any thing that will get real dirty to be polished(like the belly). Partly for effect and partly to reduce polishing work load.
#Rejex on polished aluminum skin#
Leading edges, fiberglass, bottom of fuse, glareshield, and top rear skin going to rudder will be painted. I'm gonna do the top/bottom wing, fuselage sides, and rudder as well. I think I have a picture on my page of the horiz stab all polished. I tried using a regular car wax buffer (cheap one from menards) but ended up using the makita polisher with great effect.
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